Gold has captivated humanity for centuries, symbolising wealth, beauty, and craftsmanship. In jewellery, understanding gold-related terms can deepen one’s appreciation of the metal’s versatile forms, from traditional alloys to modern electroplating methods. This glossary offers precise definitions, ensuring clarity for both enthusiasts and experts navigating the world of gold in jewellery.
80:20 Rule
An import regulation in India requiring 20% of imported gold to be re-exported as jewellery to address the current account deficit.
À la Mercure
A fire-gilding process using a mercury-gold amalgam, later heated to vaporise the mercury, leaving a gold layer. This toxic method is now limited to restorations requiring permits.
Akshaya Tritiya
A day in Hindu and Jain calendars marked by purchasing gold, believed to bring luck and prosperity.
Alloy
A blend of metals, often enhancing gold’s hardness and colour. Gold alloys include metals like silver, copper, or palladium.
American Doublé
A gilded layer applied over a tombak base is used historically in American jewellery.
Assay
Testing an item’s metal content and purity is essential for ensuring gold’s quality.
Bluite
An 18k white gold alloy claiming the closest colour to platinum, marketed by Goldfarb & Friedberg, Inc.
Coin Gold
An alloy of 90% gold and 10% copper is used in American coins.
Crown Gold
An English term referring to 18-karat gold, primarily used in coins.
Dabba Trading
An illegal trading practice where brokers execute trades off-exchange, using prices as reference points without actual stock or commodity transactions.
Diwali
A Hindu festival where purchasing gold is a cultural tradition symbolising prosperity.
Doré
Unrefined gold bars from mined ore, containing gold and other metals. These bars are refined to extract pure gold.
Drittel Gold
An 8-karat gold alloy, derived from the German word “drittel,” meaning a third.
Excise Free Zone
Designated areas in India are exempt from excise duties, encouraging investment and manufacturing in remote regions.
Fine Gold
Pure gold, also known as 24-karat gold, without alloyed metals.
Gilt
A base metal with an extremely thin gold coating, achieved chemically or electrically, gives an item a gold appearance.
Gold à Quatre Couleurs
A French term describing jewellery featuring four shades of gold—typically red, green, yellow, and blue—combined for design.
Gold Deposit Scheme
An Indian government scheme offering interest in exchange for gold deposits in banks, with tax exemptions on earnings.
Gold Electroform
A lightweight technique where a mould is placed in a gold bath, and electricity deposits gold onto the mould’s surface, often dissolving the original material after plating.
Gold Electroplate
Electroplating involves using a chemical bath and electric current to coat a base metal with gold. Gold electroplate must meet specific thickness standards.
Gold Filled
A base metal item bonded with a gold layer, comprising at least 1/20th of the item’s weight, marked with a karat value if applicable.
Gold Leaf
Gold hammered into thin sheets, used decoratively on furniture, artwork, and architecture. Historically crafted by beating gold to extremely thin layers.
Gold Monetisation Scheme
A gold savings account in India allows individuals to earn interest on deposited gold based on weight and market value.
Gold Plate
Gold coating applied by bonding, creating layers of gold on an item, different from gold-filled which has a minimum weight requirement.
Gold Wash
A thin gilded layer under 0.2 microns, used for a lighter decorative finish on jewellery.
Hallmarking
A mark guaranteeing precious metal purity, typically indicating maker, purity, assay year, and mark of the assaying entity.
Heavy Gold Electroplate
A thicker gold coating achieved via electroplating, often seen in watch cases with specific thickness standards.
Indian Gold Coin
An official gold coin launched by India’s government in 2015, featuring a BIS hallmark and national insignia.
Jou-Jou Or
A 6-karat gold alloy used in French jewellery, translating to “toy gold.”
Karat Gold
A measurement of gold purity, with 24-karat as pure gold. Expressed as a number followed by “K” (e.g., 14K for 58.5% gold).
Karat Clad
A trade name for gold electroplate meeting a minimum thickness of 100 microns, complying with federal standards.
LBMA
The London Bullion Market Association, sets standards for gold and silver bullion, requiring refiners to meet strict quality criteria.
London Good Delivery Bars
Large gold bars meet LBMA standards, with a minimum weight of 350 ounces and 99.5% purity, accepted in the London bullion market.
Make in India
An initiative launched to position India as a global manufacturing hub, including sectors like gold jewellery.
Metro, Tier 1, and Tier 2 Cities
Indian cities categorised by population size, influencing retail and economic strategies within the jewellery sector.
Non-Bank Financial Company (NBFC)
An Indian financial institution offering loans and services, including gold loans, without holding full banking licenses.
Ore Grade
The concentration of gold within ore, is often measured in grammes per tonne. Higher-grade ores yield more gold per volume extracted.
Plumb Gold
A gold alloy that meets or exceeds its stated karat mark within a small tolerance, indicating high accuracy.
Recycling
The process of refining scrap or unwanted gold jewellery back into pure bullion, excluding gold traded for new jewellery.
Regaladium
A branded alloy used as a substitute for gold in class rings, developed by Sebco, Inc. in Indianapolis.
Rolled Gold Plate
Gold is applied to a base metal by rolling, creating a thin, high-quality coating used in costume jewellery.
Sheet Gold
Gold sheets produced by rolling, a common material in historical and modern jewellery-making, often shaped into hollow tubes or figures.
Silver-Topped Gold
A method where gold backing supports silver jewellery, reducing tarnish on the skin while preserving the bright metal look.
Solid Gold
Pure or 24-karat gold. Legally in the U.S., items marked “solid gold” must contain at least 10-karat gold and not be hollow.
Star Trading House
An Indian government designation for exporters meeting high export earnings, promoting international trade in gold and jewellery.
Systematic Investment Plan (SIP)
A monthly investment strategy for accumulating gold, allowing gradual accumulation without large upfront costs.
Tumbaga
A pre-Columbian alloy of gold and copper, often containing silver. Tumbaga was commonly used in Mesoamerican and South American jewellery.
Ultrium
An alloy marketed as a gold substitute in the U.S., known for its durability and resistance to tarnishing.
Value Addition Norms
Government-set criteria for the minimum value added in manufacturing, particularly in the jewellery sector, measured by material input and final product value.
Vermeil
Gold-plated sterling silver, with a minimum 2.5-micron gold thickness and often stamped to verify quality. Used in fine jewellery.
Walz Gold
A German term for doublé (rolled gold), widely used in Europe, especially for watch cases and costume jewellery.
White Gold
An alloy of gold with white metals like palladium or nickel, was originally developed as a platinum substitute. Often rhodium-plated for brightness.
Yellow Gold
Traditional gold alloy with copper and silver, prized for its warm hue and commonly used in classic and modern jewellery.
