Platinum is renowned in the jewellery world for its exceptional qualities and timeless appeal. As one of the most precious and enduring metals, platinum offers unmatched durability, lustre, and hypoallergenic properties, making it a preferred choice for crafting fine jewellery. Understanding the terminology associated with platinum is essential for anyone interested in jewellery design, purchase, or craftsmanship. This comprehensive glossary provides clear definitions of key platinum terms, guiding both novices and professionals through the nuances of this extraordinary metal.
Alloy
A mixture of metals where platinum is combined with other elements, such as iridium, ruthenium, or copper, to enhance its hardness and durability for jewellery making.
Annealing
A heat treatment process that softens platinum, making it more malleable for shaping and forming during the crafting process.
Assay
The testing and analysis of platinum to determine its purity before hallmarking. Assaying ensures the metal meets legal standards for platinum content.
Bezel Setting
A type of gemstone setting where the stone is encircled by a continuous strip of platinum, offering secure placement and protection.
Casting
A method of shaping platinum by melting and pouring it into a mould to achieve the desired design, is commonly used in jewellery production.
Comfort Fit
A design technique used in platinum rings where the inside surface is slightly domed, providing a more comfortable fit on the finger.
Density
Platinum’s high density refers to its heaviness relative to its size. This property contributes to its durability and substantial feel in jewellery pieces.
Die Striking
A manufacturing process where platinum sheets are stamped under high pressure to create precise and detailed jewellery components.
Electroplating
The process of coating a metal object with a thin layer of platinum using electrical current is often used to enhance appearance or provide a platinum finish to other metals.
Fabrication
The technique of creating platinum jewellery by hand or machine through processes like bending, cutting, and welding, rather than casting.
Hallmark
An official mark stamped on platinum jewellery indicating its purity, origin, and the assaying office that certified it. In the UK, platinum is hallmarked with a fineness number such as 950.
Ingot
A block of pure platinum cast into a convenient shape for storage or further processing in jewellery making.
Investment Casting
Also known as lost-wax casting; a technique where a wax model is covered in refractory material to create a mould, which is then filled with molten platinum.
Iridium
A hard, brittle metal often alloyed with platinum to enhance strength and durability in jewellery applications.
Malleability
Platinum’s ability to be shaped and formed without breaking, allows jewellers to create intricate designs.
Patina
A subtle matte appearance that develops on platinum over time due to surface wear is often appreciated for adding character to the jewellery.
PGM (Platinum Group Metals)
A group of six metallic elements that have similar physical and chemical properties, including platinum, palladium, rhodium, ruthenium, iridium, and osmium.
Platinum 950
A common purity standard for platinum jewellery, indicating 95% platinum content and 5% alloying metals for strength.
Platinum Alloy
A mixture where platinum is combined with other metals to improve its workability and durability while maintaining its precious qualities.
Polishing
The process of refining the surface of platinum jewellery to achieve a high shine or desired finish.
Refractory Metal
A type of metal, like platinum, has a very high melting point and retains strength at high temperatures, making it suitable for certain industrial applications.
Rhodium Plating
A surface treatment where a thin layer of rhodium (another platinum group metal) is applied to platinum jewellery to enhance whiteness and shine.
Ring Sizing
Adjusting the size of a platinum ring, requires skill due to the metal’s hardness and high melting point.
Ruthenium
A rare metal used as an alloying agent with platinum to increase hardness and wear resistance in jewellery.
Soldering
Joining two pieces of platinum together using a filler metal (solder) with a lower melting point, is essential in jewellery assembly.
Tensile Strength
A measure of how much-pulling force platinum can withstand without breaking, indicative of its durability in fine jewellery.
Thermal Conductivity
Platinum’s ability to conduct heat, affects how jewellers work with the metal during processes like soldering and annealing.
Verdigris
A greenish patina can form on metals like copper but does not occur on platinum due to its resistance to corrosion.
White Gold
An alloy of gold mixed with white metals like nickel, palladium, or platinum, often rhodium-plated to enhance whiteness; an alternative to platinum in jewellery.
Work Hardening
The process where platinum becomes harder and stronger as it is shaped and formed, affects how jewellers manipulate the metal.
