An analog watch displays the time using hands on a dial, rather than a digital display. The hour, minute, and often second hands move around a dial marked with numbers or indices to show the time. Analog displays are traditional and are often favoured for their classic and timeless aesthetic.
An automatic or self-winding movement is a type of mechanical watch movement that winds itself through the natural motion of the wearer’s wrist. This is achieved by an oscillating weight, known as a rotor, that spins with the movement of the wrist, winding the mainspring. Automatic watches do not require manual winding as long as they are worn regularly, offering a combination of the traditional mechanical craftsmanship and the convenience of not needing frequent winding.
The bezel is the outer ring that surrounds the watch face, often securing the crystal to the case. Bezels can be either fixed or rotating and may serve functional purposes, such as tracking elapsed time on a dive watch or speed with a tachymeter scale on a chronograph. Bezels can also be decorative, sometimes adorned with precious metals or gemstones, significantly impacting the watch’s aesthetic and value.
A bezel that can rotate both clockwise and counterclockwise. This feature allows for more versatile timing options compared to unidirectional bezels, which only rotate in one direction. Bi-directional bezels are often found on watches with additional functions, such as those used in aviation or yachting.
The bracelet is the strap or band that secures the watch to the wrist. Bracelets can be made from various materials including metal (stainless steel, gold, titanium), leather, rubber, or exotic materials. The quality, material, and craftsmanship of the bracelet are critical factors that influence the comfort, style, and overall value of the watch.
The term “calibre” refers to the movement or mechanism inside the watch that powers its functions, including timekeeping and any additional complications. The calibre is essentially the engine of the watch, and can be either mechanical (manual or automatic) or quartz. In-house calibres, designed and produced entirely by the watch brand, are particularly prized for their exclusivity and the expertise they represent.
A feature on a watch that displays the date, and sometimes the day of the week or the month. Calendar functions are typically displayed through small apertures on the dial, and they range from simple date displays to complex perpetual calendars that account for leap years.
The case of a watch is the outer shell that houses and protects the movement, dial, and other internal components. Cases can be made from a variety of materials, including stainless steel, gold, platinum, titanium, or ceramic. The design and finishing of the case contribute significantly to the watch’s durability, style, and water resistance.
The rear side of the watch case, often secured with screws or a screw-down mechanism. Casebacks can be solid, offering protection and a surface for engraving, or transparent (exhibition), allowing the wearer to view the intricate movement inside. High-end watches often feature decorative or engraved casebacks, adding to their uniqueness and appeal.
A chronograph is a type of watch that includes a stopwatch function, allowing the wearer to measure elapsed time independently of the regular timekeeping function. Chronographs typically feature additional sub-dials for recording seconds, minutes, and hours. They are popular in sports and aviation watches and are valued for their complexity and versatility.
A chronometer is a watch that has passed rigorous precision tests and has been certified by an official body, such as the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC). Chronometers must maintain accuracy within +6 and -4 seconds per day under various conditions, making them some of the most reliable and precise watches available.
In watchmaking, a complication is any feature beyond the basic time display of hours and minutes. Complications include functions like a date display, chronograph, moon phase, perpetual calendar, and tourbillon. The more complications a watch has, the more complex its movement, often increasing both its value and the skill required to manufacture it.
The Controle Officiel Suisse des Chronometres (COSC) is the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute, responsible for certifying the precision and accuracy of watches. A COSC-certified watch has undergone extensive testing and meets strict criteria for timekeeping accuracy, making it a mark of high quality.
The crown is the small knob, typically located on the side of the watch case, used for setting the time and date, and for winding the movement in manual watches. In some watches, especially dive watches, the crown is screw-down, enhancing water resistance and protecting the movement from dust and moisture.
The crystal is the transparent cover that protects the watch dial. Crystals are usually made from one of three materials: acrylic, mineral glass, or synthetic sapphire. Sapphire crystals are the most scratch-resistant and are commonly found on luxury watches, contributing to the durability and clarity of the watch face.
A small aperture on the dial where the date is displayed. The date window is one of the simplest and most common complications found in watches, offering added functionality without cluttering the design.
A deployant clasp (or deployment clasp) is a type of watch clasp that folds open and closed, providing added security and ease of use compared to traditional pin buckles. Deployant clasps can be made from various materials, including precious metals, and are often found on luxury watches, enhancing their elegance and functionality.
The dial is the face of the watch, where the time and other functions are displayed. Dials can be designed in a wide range of styles and materials, including enamel, guilloché, mother-of-pearl, and more. The quality and craftsmanship of the dial are crucial to the overall aesthetic and value of the watch.
A watch that displays time numerically, often through an LCD or LED screen. Digital watches can offer a variety of functions, such as alarms, timers, and chronographs, and are valued for their precision and readability, particularly in low-light conditions.
A diving watch is a timepiece specifically designed for underwater use, with features such as a high water resistance rating (typically at least 200 meters), a unidirectional rotating bezel for tracking dive time, and a screw-down crown and caseback to prevent water ingress. Diving watches are built to withstand the harsh conditions of deep-sea diving and are often robust, functional, and highly durable.
DLC (Diamond Like Carbon) is a type of coating applied to watch cases and components, providing a dark, almost black finish that is highly scratch-resistant and durable. DLC coatings are popular in high-end sports and luxury watches for their aesthetic appeal and protective qualities.
The EOL indicator is a feature in quartz watches that alerts the wearer when the battery is nearing the end of its life. This is often indicated by the second hand jumping in two or four-second intervals instead of the usual one-second tick, signaling that it’s time to replace the battery.
The escapement is a crucial component in mechanical watches, responsible for regulating the release of energy from the mainspring to the gear train. It converts the energy stored in the mainspring into the precise, oscillating motion needed to keep time. The design and quality of the escapement directly affect the accuracy and longevity of the watch.
A retrograde hand is used on a half-circle or arc-shaped sub-dial, where it “flies back” to the start after reaching the end of its scale. For example, in a retrograde date function, the hand will jump back to the 1st day of the month after reaching the last day. This complication adds a dynamic and visually appealing element to the watch design.
Geneva Stripes (Côtes de Genève) are a decorative pattern of parallel lines applied to the surfaces of movement components, such as bridges and plates. This type of finishing is a hallmark of high-quality Swiss watchmaking, adding both aesthetic beauty and a mark of craftsmanship to the watch’s movement.
A Grand Complication is a watch that features a combination of multiple advanced complications, such as a minute repeater, perpetual calendar, moon phase, and split-seconds chronograph. These watches represent the pinnacle of watchmaking skill, combining numerous functions in a single timepiece and are often produced in limited numbers due to their complexity and the craftsmanship required.
Horological refers to the science and art of timekeeping and watchmaking. This term encompasses all aspects of designing, manufacturing, and studying timepieces, including the movements, complications, and aesthetics of watches.
The Incabloc system is a shock protection mechanism used in mechanical watches to protect the delicate parts, such as the balance wheel and hairspring, from damage due to physical shocks. This system allows the critical components to absorb impact and return to their original position, preserving the watch’s accuracy and longevity.
An in-house movement is a watch movement that is entirely designed and manufactured by the watch brand itself, rather than being sourced from an external supplier. In-house movements are often seen as a mark of prestige and quality, reflecting the brand’s technical expertise and commitment to craftsmanship.
A small piece of metal attached to the balance wheel, used to adjust the balance’s oscillation speed by fine-tuning its inertia. This allows the watchmaker to regulate the watch’s accuracy by increasing or decreasing the movement of the balance. Inertia blocks are critical for achieving precise timekeeping in mechanical watches.
A bracelet that is designed to seamlessly blend with the watch case, creating a unified, continuous look. The lines of the case flow smoothly into the bracelet, making it appear as though the bracelet is an extension of the case itself. This design enhances the watch’s aesthetic and often adds to its exclusivity and value.
In a mechanical watch movement, jewels are small, synthetic gemstones, usually rubies, used as bearings for the gears and other moving parts. These jewels reduce friction and wear, contributing to the movement’s durability and accuracy. The number of jewels in a movement often indicates its complexity, with more jewels typically found in higher-end watches.
A complication where the hour indication “jumps” instantly from one hour to the next at the end of each 60-minute cycle. This feature requires precise engineering to ensure the jump happens smoothly and accurately, and it is often found in watches with unique or innovative designs.
A mechanical movement complication where the second hand ticks in one-second intervals, similar to a quartz watch, rather than sweeping smoothly around the dial. This feature, also known as Dead Beat Seconds, is achieved through a complex mechanism that controls the second hand’s movement, making it an impressive display of watchmaking skill.
A measurement of the purity of gold, expressed in 24 parts. For example, 18-karat gold is 18/24 parts pure gold, or 75%, with the remaining 25% made up of other metals. The karat rating affects the metal’s durability, colour, and value, with higher-karat gold being more valuable and less durable.
The projections on a watch case where the strap or bracelet is attached. Lugs can vary in shape, size, and finish, influencing both the aesthetic and comfort of the watch. The design of the lugs is crucial for ensuring a secure attachment between the case and the strap or bracelet.
A Swiss-made ceramic material known for its high luminous effect, used in luxury watches to enhance visibility in low-light conditions. Lumicast combines durability with superior luminescence, making it ideal for high-end timepieces that require both functionality and aesthetic appeal.
Luminous material applied to the hands, indices, and other parts of a watch to make them visible in the dark. Lume is often made from photoluminescent compounds that absorb light and then glow in the dark, with Super-LumiNova being a popular high-quality choice. The effectiveness and longevity of lume are key considerations for dive watches and other timepieces used in low-light environments.
A force that can interfere with the movement of mechanical watches by affecting the balance spring, causing the watch to run fast, slow, or stop altogether. Exposure to magnetic fields can disrupt the delicate interactions within the movement, leading to inaccurate timekeeping. Anti-magnetic materials and protective shields are often used in luxury watches to mitigate the effects of magnetism.
The main plate is the foundational base of a watch movement, onto which all other components, such as the gears, bridges, and escapement, are mounted. The main plate is typically made of metal and is essential for the structural integrity and alignment of the movement.
The mainspring is a coiled spring that stores energy in a mechanical watch. When wound, either manually or automatically, the mainspring releases energy gradually, driving the gears and other components to power the watch. The tension in the mainspring determines the watch’s power reserve, or how long it can run before needing to be wound again.
A type of mechanical movement that requires the wearer to wind the mainspring manually by turning the crown. Manual-wound watches need regular winding to maintain power, typically every 24 to 48 hours. This traditional method of powering a watch is often appreciated for the tactile connection it provides between the wearer and the timepiece.
A highly accurate timekeeping device used for determining longitude at sea. Marine chronometers are typically housed in a protective box and mounted on gimbals to remain level even in rough seas. These instruments were essential for navigation before the advent of GPS and are known for their precision and reliability.
A feature on some watches that allows the wearer to convert units of measurement, such as miles to kilometers or pounds to kilograms. This function is often integrated into the bezel or dial through graduated scales, making the watch a practical tool for professionals who need to perform quick calculations.
A traditional watch movement powered by the gradual release of energy from a wound mainspring. Mechanical movements can be either manual or automatic, and they rely on a series of gears and escapements to keep time. These movements are valued for their craftsmanship, complexity, and the skill required to assemble them.
A French term meaning “artistic crafts,” referring to the specialized techniques used in the decoration and finishing of luxury watches. These techniques include enamelling, engraving, gem-setting, and guilloché, among others. Métiers d’Art represent the pinnacle of horological artistry, turning each watch into a unique work of art.
A unit of measurement equal to one-thousandth of a millimetre, often used to describe the thickness of gold plating on watch components. The thickness of plating is critical for determining the durability and quality of the finish, with thicker plating providing better protection and a more luxurious appearance.
A type of glass used for watch crystals, offering good scratch resistance and durability at a lower cost than sapphire crystal. Mineral crystal is commonly used in mid-range watches and provides a clear view of the dial while protecting it from daily wear and tear.
A complex watch complication that chimes the time on demand, typically using a series of gongs and hammers inside the watch. Minute repeaters can sound the time in hours, quarters, and minutes, making them one of the most intricate and prestigious complications in watchmaking.
A mechanism where two balance wheels are synchronized to oscillate in opposite directions simultaneously. This design improves accuracy by averaging out any potential timing errors due to gravitational forces, ensuring more consistent timekeeping. Mirrored force systems are a hallmark of advanced watchmaking.
A type of chronograph that uses a single button to start, stop, and reset the timer functions. This design simplifies the operation of the chronograph and is often found in vintage or retro-inspired watches, adding to their charm and collectibility.
A complication that displays the current phase of the moon, typically through a small aperture on the dial. The moonphase indicator tracks the 29.5-day lunar cycle, showing the moon’s waxing and waning. This complication is both functional and decorative, often adding a poetic element to the watch’s design.
The iridescent inner layer of certain mollusk shells, used to create decorative watch dials. Mother of Pearl can display a range of colours, from white to pink to blue, depending on how it is cut and polished. Each piece is unique, making Mother of Pearl dials particularly prized for their natural beauty and elegance.
The internal mechanism of a watch that drives its functions, including timekeeping, calendar displays, and complications. Movements can be mechanical, quartz, or a combination of both (as in hybrid watches). The complexity, precision, and finishing of the movement are major factors in determining the watch’s quality and value.
A watch that performs multiple functions beyond timekeeping, such as a stopwatch, alarm, or world time display. Multi-functional watches are often equipped with a combination of analog and digital displays, providing versatility and practicality for everyday use.
A type of fabric watch strap originally designed for military use, characterized by its durability and security. The strap passes through the watch’s lug bars and under the case, ensuring that the watch remains attached to the wrist even if one of the lug bars fails. Nato straps are popular for their rugged, casual style and are available in various colours and patterns.
The numbers on a watch dial that indicate the hours. Numerals can be Arabic (1, 2, 3) or Roman (I, II, III) and are often a key element of the watch’s design. The style, size, and material of the numerals contribute to the watch’s legibility and overall aesthetic.
A semicircular metal weight that swings freely within an automatic watch, winding the mainspring as it moves. The oscillating weight, or rotor, is a critical component of self-winding watches, allowing them to maintain power as long as they are worn regularly. The design and decoration of the rotor are often visible through a transparent caseback, adding to the watch’s visual appeal.
The back-and-forth movement of a watch’s balance wheel, measured in hertz (Hz). Each oscillation consists of two vibrations (one in each direction), and the speed of oscillation determines the watch’s accuracy. High-frequency movements, which oscillate faster, are generally more precise but also more challenging to produce and maintain.
A rare and highly complex complication that chimes the hour every time the hour changes. Unlike minute repeaters, which chime on demand, Passage au Sonnerie operates automatically, making it a highly prized feature in the most sophisticated timepieces.
A legal protection granted to an inventor, allowing them exclusive rights to their invention for a set period. In the watch industry, patents protect new technologies, mechanisms, and designs, giving manufacturers a competitive edge. Patented features often become selling points for luxury watches, highlighting innovation and exclusivity.
The natural aging process that occurs on certain metals, resulting in a change in colour or texture. Patina is often seen on vintage watches, where it can add character and uniqueness to the piece. Collectors frequently value patina as a sign of authenticity and history, especially in older timepieces.
A decorative technique used on watch movements, involving the application of small, overlapping circles to create a pearl-like pattern. Perlage is often found on the main plate and other visible parts of the movement, showcasing the watchmaker’s attention to detail and commitment to craftsmanship.
A complication that automatically adjusts the date to account for the varying lengths of months and leap years. A perpetual calendar watch will continue to display the correct date without requiring manual correction, making it a highly desirable feature for those seeking precision and convenience in their timepieces.
A type of mechanical movement that winds itself automatically through the natural motion of the wearer’s wrist. As the wearer moves, the oscillating weight inside the watch rotates, winding the mainspring. This perpetual winding eliminates the need for manual winding, ensuring the watch remains powered as long as it is worn regularly.
A type of watch strap made from braided nylon, known for its flexibility, comfort, and durability. Perlon straps are lightweight and breathable, making them ideal for warm weather or outdoor activities. They are also adjustable to any wrist size, offering a custom fit without the need for specific holes or clasps.
A flat metal component in a watch movement that serves as a foundation for mounting other parts, such as gears and springs. The plate is an essential structural element of the movement, providing stability and alignment for the intricate components that make the watch function.
A rare and highly durable precious metal often used in luxury watch cases and bracelets. Platinum is denser and more resistant to tarnish than gold, with a distinctive silvery-white colour. Watches made from platinum are typically heavier and more expensive, reflecting the metal’s rarity and prestige.
The amount of time a fully wound watch can run before it needs to be wound again. Power reserve is a key consideration for mechanical watches, as it determines how long the watch will keep time when not being worn. Some watches feature a power reserve indicator on the dial, showing how much energy remains in the mainspring.
A feature on some mechanical watches that displays the remaining power in the mainspring, usually in hours or days. The power reserve indicator is often shown on the dial as a small sub-dial or gauge, providing the wearer with a visual reminder of when the watch needs to be wound.
A scale typically found on chronographs, used to measure a person’s pulse rate. The wearer starts the chronograph and counts the number of heartbeats (usually over 15 or 30 seconds), then stops the chronograph to read the pulse rate on the scale. Pulso meters are often used by medical professionals and are a useful feature in watches designed for sports or healthcare.
Buttons on the side of a watch case that control specific functions, such as starting, stopping, and resetting a chronograph. Pushers are typically located on the side of the case, around the crown, and are an essential feature of any chronograph watch. The design and placement of the pushers can also contribute to the watch’s overall style and usability.
A prestigious quality certification awarded to Swiss watches that meet stringent criteria for precision, craftsmanship, and Swiss origin. To receive the Qualité Fleurier mark, a watch must pass a series of tests, including COSC certification, robustness assessments, and visual inspections. This certification is a mark of excellence in the watchmaking industry, signifying superior quality and reliability.
A slice of synthetic quartz that vibrates at a precise frequency when an electric current is applied. This vibration regulates the timekeeping in quartz watches, making them highly accurate. Quartz movements are known for their reliability, low maintenance, and affordability, and are commonly found in both luxury and everyday watches.
An electronic watch movement powered by a battery and regulated by a quartz crystal. Quartz movements are known for their precision, often keeping time to within a few seconds per month. They require less maintenance than mechanical movements and are commonly used in a wide range of watches, from affordable to high-end models.
A feature that allows the wearer to quickly adjust the date or day display without having to rotate the hour hand through a full 24-hour cycle. Quick Set is a convenient function that simplifies the process of setting the watch, especially useful in watches with calendar complications.
A dial design where the hour markers are arranged in a radial pattern, with the markers pointing towards the centre of the dial. This design can create a sense of depth and movement, enhancing the watch’s visual appeal. Radial dials are often used in sports watches for their legibility and dynamic appearance.
A complication that features two second hands, one of which can be stopped independently while the other continues to run. This allows the wearer to time multiple events simultaneously, such as different laps in a race. The Rattrapante function is highly prized for its complexity and precision, often found in the most sophisticated chronograph watches.
The unique code or number assigned by the manufacturer to a specific watch model. The reference number identifies the watch’s design, materials, and movement, making it an important detail for collectors and enthusiasts. Reference numbers are often engraved on the case or movement and are used to verify the watch’s authenticity.
A countdown timer specifically designed for sailing races, helping the wearer track the time remaining until the start of the race. The Regatta Timer often includes visual or audible alerts as the countdown progresses, making it an essential tool for competitive sailors. This feature is commonly found in luxury sports watches with a nautical theme.
A type of watch dial where the minutes are displayed prominently on the main dial, while the hours and seconds are shown on separate sub-dials. The Regulator layout is designed for precision timekeeping, often used by watchmakers and scientists. The distinct arrangement of the dial elements gives the watch a unique and technical appearance.
The inner ring between the watch crystal and the dial, often used for decorative or functional purposes. The Rehaut may be engraved with text or markings, such as the brand name or serial number, adding a subtle detail to the watch’s design. In some watches, the Rehaut is also used to display a second time zone or other information.
A feature that shows how much power remains in a watch’s mainspring before it needs to be wound again. The Reserve de Marche is typically displayed on the dial as a sub-dial or gauge, providing a visual reminder of the watch’s remaining energy. This function is especially useful in manual-wound watches, where keeping track of the power reserve is essential to ensure accurate timekeeping.
A rare and complex feature where two independent escapements in a watch movement are connected and influence each other. The purpose of Resonance is to improve accuracy by averaging out any potential timing errors between the two escapements. Watches with Resonance are highly sought after for their technical sophistication and precision.
A function in a chronograph that allows the seconds hand to be reset to zero and immediately restarted with a single push of a button. The Flyback function is particularly useful for pilots and others who need to time multiple events in quick succession. This feature is a hallmark of high-quality chronographs, offering both functionality and a smooth user experience.
A type of display where the hand moves in an arc rather than a full circle and jumps back to the starting position at the end of its scale. Retrograde displays are commonly used for date indicators, power reserve indicators, or day displays, adding a dynamic and unique visual element to the watch’s design.
A top coating usually applied over gold, silver, or other alloys to increase durability, strength, and luster. Rhodium plating is resistant to corrosion and tarnish, making it a popular choice for luxury watch components, particularly those that are frequently handled or exposed to the elements.
A unique dial design that combines Roman numerals and Arabic numerals on the same dial. This style, often associated with vintage military watches, offers a distinctive and eclectic look, blending the classical elegance of Roman numerals with the modernity of Arabic numerals.
A bezel that can be rotated, usually to perform specific functions such as timing an event or measuring elapsed time. Rotating bezels are often found on dive watches, where they are used to track time spent underwater. Depending on the watch, the bezel may rotate unidirectionally (one way) or bidirectionally (both ways).
The oscillating part of an automatic (self-winding) watch that winds the mainspring as it moves. The rotor is typically semicircular and swings freely with the movement of the wrist, transferring energy to the mainspring. In many luxury watches, the rotor is intricately designed and visible through a transparent caseback, adding to the watch’s appeal.
A date display where the numerals alternate between two colours, typically black and red. The alternating colours add a playful and distinctive touch to the watch’s design, making the date function more visually interesting.
A watch case made entirely or partially from synthetic sapphire crystal. Sapphire is highly scratch-resistant and offers exceptional clarity, making it an ideal material for both watch crystals and, in rare cases, the entire case. Sapphire cases are typically found in high-end or limited-edition watches due to the cost and difficulty of manufacturing.
A watch crystal made from synthetic sapphire, which is second only to diamond in terms of hardness. Sapphire crystals are highly scratch-resistant and provide excellent clarity, making them the preferred choice for luxury watches. The durability and optical quality of sapphire crystal significantly enhance the watch’s longevity and visual appeal.
A display that shows the hour as it travels around the dial, typically via a small sub-dial or window that moves in sync with the minute hand or another rotating element. This type of display is often used in avant-garde watch designs, offering a unique and unconventional way to read the time.
A balance wheel that has screws around its rim, allowing for precise adjustment of its moment of inertia. The screws can be moved in or out to regulate the watch’s timing, making the screw balance a hallmark of high-quality watchmaking and a feature found in many precision timepieces.
A crown that screws into the watch case, helping to secure the case and enhance water resistance. Screw-down crowns are commonly found on dive watches and other watches designed for rigorous activities, as they provide an additional layer of protection against water and dust entering the movement.
An exclusive certification granted to watches that meet specific standards for quality and craftsmanship, particularly in the Geneva region of Switzerland. The Seal of Geneva, also known as the Geneva Hallmark, is awarded based on criteria such as movement finishing, assembly, and accuracy, and it signifies exceptional Swiss watchmaking.
A feature that displays the time in a second time zone, often through an additional hand or sub-dial. This complication is particularly useful for travelers who need to keep track of time in different regions, and it is commonly found in GMT watches.
A type of mechanical movement that winds itself automatically through the natural motion of the wearer’s wrist. As the wearer moves, the oscillating weight inside the watch rotates, winding the mainspring. This self-winding mechanism eliminates the need for manual winding, ensuring the watch remains powered as long as it is worn regularly.
A unique identification number assigned to each watch by the manufacturer, usually engraved on the case or movement. The serial number can be used to verify the authenticity of the watch and trace its history, making it an important detail for collectors and owners.
A component designed to protect the delicate parts of a watch movement, such as the balance wheel and escapement, from damage due to physical shocks. Shock absorbers are typically found in mechanical watches and are crucial for maintaining accuracy and longevity, especially in sports and tool watches.
The ability of a watch to withstand impacts without compromising its accuracy or functionality. Shock resistance is an important feature in sports and tool watches, ensuring that the movement remains protected from the jarring effects of sudden impacts or drops.
A material increasingly used in watchmaking for components such as escapements and balance springs. Silicon is anti-magnetic, lightweight, and highly resistant to wear and temperature changes, making it an ideal choice for enhancing the performance and durability of mechanical watches.
A watch with a transparent dial, caseback, or both, allowing the wearer to view the intricate workings of the movement. Skeleton watches showcase the craftsmanship and complexity of the movement, often featuring elaborate decoration and finishing on the visible components.
A mechanical calculating device integrated into some watch bezels or dials, often used to perform mathematical calculations such as multiplication, division, or unit conversions. Slide rule watches, like the Breitling Navitimer, are popular among pilots and engineers for their practical applications.
A wearable device that combines traditional watch functions with modern digital technology, often featuring touchscreens, fitness tracking, notifications, and mobile connectivity. Smartwatches offer a wide range of functionalities beyond timekeeping, making them versatile tools for daily life.
A battery in a quartz watch that is recharged by solar panels integrated into the dial. Solar-powered watches are eco-friendly and convenient, as they reduce the need for battery replacements and can function with minimal exposure to light.
A watch designed for use in sports or outdoor activities, typically featuring robust construction, water resistance, and additional functionalities such as chronographs, tachymeters, or altimeters. Sports watches are built to withstand harsh conditions while providing precise timekeeping and relevant information.
A chronograph complication that features two seconds hands, allowing the wearer to time multiple events simultaneously. One hand can be stopped while the other continues to run, and when restarted, the stopped hand “catches up” with the other. This complex function is prized for its technical sophistication and is often found in high-end chronographs.
A cylindrical metal box containing the mainspring, which stores and releases energy to drive the watch movement. The spring barrel is a crucial component in mechanical watches, determining the power reserve and the consistency of energy delivery to the movement.
A durable, corrosion-resistant metal alloy commonly used in watch cases and bracelets. Stainless steel is known for its strength, resistance to rust and tarnish, and relatively low maintenance, making it a popular choice for both luxury and everyday watches.
A feature in mechanical watches that allows the second hand to be stopped when the crown is pulled out, enabling precise time setting. This function is particularly useful for synchronizing the watch with a reference time, ensuring greater accuracy.
A function that measures elapsed time, typically controlled by pushers on the side of the watch case. When integrated into a watch, this function is known as a chronograph. Stopwatches are commonly used in sports and other timed events, where precise time measurement is critical.
A component in quartz movements that moves the gear train, driving the hands around the dial. The stepping motor is controlled by electrical impulses from the quartz crystal, ensuring precise and regular movement of the watch hands.
A precious metal alloy consisting of 92.5% pure silver, often used in watch cases and other components. Sterling silver is known for its high reflectivity and elegant appearance, though it requires regular polishing to maintain its shine.
A smaller dial within the main watch dial, used to display additional information such as elapsed time, seconds, date, or other complications. Subsidiary dials, or sub-dials, add functionality and visual interest to the watch, often found in chronographs and multi-functional watches.
A dial finish created by scoring ultra-thin lines radiating outward from the center, then applying a final color coating. This finish creates a subtle, dynamic texture that appears to change as the light hits the dial from different angles, adding depth and interest to the watch face.
A hand-turned design radiating from the center of the dial, similar to a sunburst effect. Guilloché is a decorative technique used to create intricate, repeating patterns on the dial, enhancing the visual complexity and craftsmanship of the watch.
A non-radioactive luminous substance used on watch hands, markers, and bezels. Super-LumiNova® is charged by exposure to light and glows in the dark, improving the readability of the watch in low-light or underwater conditions.
A fine adjustment mechanism used in some high-end watches to regulate the speed of the movement by adjusting the balance spring. The swan neck regulator allows for precise tuning of the watch’s timing, ensuring optimal accuracy.
A centrally mounted seconds hand that moves smoothly around the dial without the “ticking” seen in quartz watches. This sweeping motion is characteristic of mechanical watches, particularly those with higher beat rates, and is often associated with luxury timepieces.
A designation that indicates a watch was manufactured in Switzerland, with at least 60% of its production costs incurred in the country and its movement assembled and inspected there. Swiss Made watches are known for their quality, craftsmanship, and reliability, and the label is a mark of excellence in the watchmaking industry.
A certificate of origin that identifies a watch as being assembled in Switzerland with components of Swiss origin. The Swiss A.O.S.C. mark guarantees the watch’s authenticity and adherence to Swiss watchmaking standards.
A scale used to measure speed, typically found on the bezel or outer edge of chronograph dials. By measuring the time it takes to travel a known distance, the tachymeter scale can calculate speed, making it a useful feature for motorsports and aviation.
A scale used for measuring distances based on the speed of sound, commonly found on chronographs. The telemeter scale is often used to calculate the distance of an event, such as a lightning strike, by measuring the time interval between seeing the flash and hearing the thunder.
A sub-dial on a chronograph that records elapsed time for up to 30 minutes. This feature is commonly used in sports timing and other activities where tracking shorter periods of time is essential.
A device or function used for registering intervals of time without indicating the actual time of day. Timers are commonly found in sports watches, where they are used to measure durations for various events or activities.
A lightweight, strong, and corrosion-resistant metal often used in watch cases and bracelets. Titanium is hypoallergenic and highly durable, making it a popular choice for sports and luxury watches that require a combination of strength and comfort.
A watch case shape that resembles a barrel, with two convex sides that curve to follow the shape of the wrist. The tonneau shape is often used in elegant, sophisticated watch designs and is favoured for its unique, ergonomic appearance.
A watch originally designed to assist in completing specific tasks, often featuring rugged construction and practical functions such as a rotating bezel, chronograph, or water resistance. Tool watches are built for functionality and durability, making them ideal for professional or adventurous use.
A mechanism that keeps track of and displays elapsed time, usually on a sub-dial. Totalisers are often found on chronographs, where they measure intervals such as minutes or hours.
A complex and highly prized watch complication that counteracts the effects of gravity on the movement’s accuracy. The tourbillon consists of a rotating cage that holds the escapement and balance wheel, ensuring even distribution of timekeeping errors regardless of the watch’s position. Tourbillons are a hallmark of haute horlogerie, showcasing exceptional craftsmanship and engineering.
An isotope of hydrogen that was historically used in luminous watch dials and hands. Tritium paint glows in the dark but is mildly radioactive. Due to health concerns, tritium has largely been replaced by safer luminous materials such as Super-LumiNova.
A dial that has naturally aged and discoloured due to prolonged exposure to sunlight, usually developing a warm, brownish hue. Tropical dials are highly sought after by collectors for their unique, vintage appearance and the character they add to the watch.
A watch that uses two different metals or colours in its design, often combining stainless steel with gold or another precious metal. Two-tone watches offer a versatile and stylish look, balancing the durability of steel with the luxury of gold or other materials.
A bezel that rotates in one direction only, typically used to track elapsed time. This feature is commonly found on dive watches, where it helps ensure that the diver cannot accidentally increase the indicated time, adding a margin of safety during underwater activities.
The single movement of an oscillating component, such as the balance wheel, measured in vibrations per hour (vph) or beats per hour (bph). The frequency of vibrations affects the watch’s accuracy, with higher frequencies generally resulting in more precise timekeeping.
A complication where the hour is indicated by a rotating disc or hand that moves along a track or scale, often in an arc, pointing to the corresponding minute. This type of display is unconventional and adds a unique, artistic element to the watch design.
The ability of a watch to withstand exposure to water without damage, typically measured in metres or bars. Water resistance levels vary from basic splash protection to full immersion capabilities for diving watches, and are essential for ensuring the watch’s durability in different environments.
The process of tightening the mainspring of a mechanical watch, either manually by turning the crown or automatically through wrist movement in an automatic watch. Regular winding is necessary to keep the watch running and to maintain accurate timekeeping.
The grooved button on the outside of the case, used for setting the hands on a watch, and the day and date, where applicable. It is also used for winding the mainspring of a mechanical watch.
A dial that indicates the time in up to 24 different time zones around the world. Specific cities or locations are typically marked on the dial, allowing the wearer to quickly reference the time in various regions. World time watches are popular among travellers and professionals who need to keep track of multiple time zones.
A watch that utilises a world time dial.
A countdown timer, which shows and/or sounds warning signals during the countdown to a water-based race.
