Ismael ‘Ishy’ Khan stands at the centre of a quiet revolution. The thirty-three-year-old jeweller moves between London’s Hatton Garden workshops and BBC studios with a confidence that suggests the two worlds were always meant to overlap. On screen he helps families understand why a forgotten brooch might fund a grandchild’s degree. In private he ushers collectors into an office hidden behind an unmarked door, lays a single velvet tray on the table and waits for the sparkle to speak first. Such moments capture the emotion of owning something made long before electricity reached every home. They also explain why his name is whispered wherever people still care about the alchemy of metal, stone and memory.
A Modern Face of Heritage Jewellery
Look past the television smiles and you will see a professional life built on hard graft, not inherited display cabinets. Khan grew up in Surrey, far from the pedigree showrooms that dominate Bond Street. A teenage fascination with historical objects led him to local auctions where, as he tells it, he arrived hoping to sell a ring and left with a box of fresh purchases instead. Those early bids ignited a conviction that antique jewellery could be both commercially viable and culturally relevant. Within a decade, the hobby evolved into Ishy Antiques, a business based in the Garden yet structured for the digital age.
From Auction Floors to BBC Screens
Khan’s media breakthrough came when producers of BBC Antiques Roadshow noticed his easy authority and calm humour. Viewers warmed to the way he translates carat weights and Georgian settings into plain English. That visibility fuels his private practice more effectively than any billboard. A collector who watches him date a ring on Sunday evening is far more likely to trust him with a six-figure commission on Monday morning.
Yet broadcast fame is only half the story. Khan still attends morning viewings at provincial salerooms, a habit that preserves his competitive edge. He knows how to spot workshop alterations that undermine provenance and how to read the faint shorthand of Victorian assay marks. This disciplined sourcing keeps his stock authentic and fresh, two qualities that digital resellers often struggle to combine.
Accessible Luxury in Hatton Garden
Traditional jewellers rely on shopfronts filled with mirrored cabinets and bright lighting. Ishy Antiques operates by appointment only, an approach that reduces overheads while heightening exclusivity. The address—LG14, 16-16a Record Hall—places him squarely inside the Garden’s stone-paved grid. Yet, clients enter a streamlined studio instead of a retail arcade. Prices remain deliberately broad. Khan argues that a working-age buyer should be able to start a collection without having to remortgage the house. He keeps profit margins tight, sells quickly and reinvests frequently. That velocity supports his belief that heritage pieces must be worn, not stored.
Fun Fact: In Hatton Garden’s Victorian heyday, most daytime deals were finalized with a nod rather than a signature, a tradition that many dealers, including Khan, still honor today.
A Curator’s Eye for Wearable History
Khan does not manufacture new lines; he curates old ones. His speciality is the period between the late Georgian and early Art Deco eras, although his taste roams wherever craftsmanship and romance align. He often reminds first-time buyers to trust their eyes ahead of laboratory reports. Gemmological certificates matter, but emotion, he insists, is the value you feel each time the clasp clicks shut.
Below are examples of pieces that define his aesthetic. Each illustrates how material choice, symbolism and condition combine to create a distinct signature.
- Georgian garnet star-mount ring featuring old cut diamonds for celestial drama
- Pair of gilded Georgian miniature buckles that blur the line between jewellery and historical curiosity
- Edwardian sapphire and diamond ring in 18-carat gold, a lesson in restrained luxury
- Edwardian Toi et Moi ring, two stones joined to symbolise union, held in millegrain claws
- Antique Indian enamel, emerald and diamond ring that widens his scope beyond European ateliers
- IxH collaboration True Love Knot ring, proof that antique components can power contemporary design
These items, sold through his channels or featured in press coverage, reveal a clear through-line: artistry first, wearability a close second.
Collaborations that Revive Forgotten Gems
One of Khan’s most celebrated projects began when he discovered loose star-shaped enamel plaques in a dealer’s tray. Instead of consigning them to a safe, he approached independent maker Jewellery Hannah and offered creative freedom. The result was a limited run of rings that sold out within days, turning decorative fragments into modern heirlooms. By taking responsibility for potential losses during conversion, he removes fear from the process and proves that rejuvenation can equal preservation.
Craftsmanship Standards Built on Science
Every acquisition undergoes laboratory testing. Diamonds are screened to confirm earth-mined origin; gold is verified with XRF analysis similar to that used by the Assay Office. Kane publishes these checks on invoices, reinforcing confidence among clients who may never meet him in person. In an online marketplace crowded with questionable listings, transparency is his primary competitive advantage.
Building a Digital-First Community
Instagram arrived at a perfect moment for Khan. Early posts showed quiet shots of Victorian brooches against linen backdrops, accompanied by short notes about symbolism and construction. The account grew organically because it felt honest rather than staged. Buyers appreciated prices that aligned with their research, while peers appreciated a feed that championed education over hype. Today the handle @ishyantiques doubles as shopfront and seminar. Short clips dissect the geometry of Art Deco jewellery, while longer captions explore the sociology of gift-giving in Edwardian London.
TikTok, launched more recently, targets a younger demographic. Quick-fire segments reveal how to check a clasp for solder marks or how to recognise hand-cut prongs. These videos spread fast because they deliver practical value inside thirty seconds—a format native to the platform rather than imported from television.
Television credibility and the trust dividend
Khan’s first appearance on BBC Antiques Roadshow did more than lift viewing figures. It injected an industry insider’s voice into millions of living rooms, replacing jargon with stories and data points that anyone could follow. When he explains how pavilion depth affects fire, or why a garnet changes colour under candlelight, he grants viewers the gift of understanding. That transparency lays the groundwork for commercial relationships because the process looks exactly the same whether the camera is running or not. Sellers see a buyer who will honour provenance notes long ignored by auction catalogues. Private clients see a specialist willing to say no when a headline stone hides an undisclosed chip. In a market still policed by reputation rather than regulation, that refusal to compromise is bankable capital.
On screen, his cues are subtle. A paused breath before naming a fair price signals respect for an heirloom’s emotional weight. A gentle correction when a co-presenter mispronounces parure demonstrates command without arrogance. The subtext never wavers: accuracy first, theatre second. Viewers respond. Emails arrive daily from owners who watched him date a brooch to 1840 and now want the same forensic attention for their grandmother’s tiara. Each message expands the circle of trust that fuels Ishy Antiques.
Partnership model that elevates Hatton Garden
Many dealers work alone, guarding supply lines with near-monastic secrecy. Khan flips that script by partnering with Hatton Jewels and other established workshops. The practice delivers compounding benefits. It grants him first refusal on stock that seldom reaches open market and it gives collaborators a digital ambassador with BBC-verified reach. Together they curate monthly “Expert Edit” drops that spotlight rare signed pieces from Cartier, Boucheron or Mappin & Webb. The videos perform a dual service: they offer collectors a meticulous tour of construction techniques and they position Hatton Garden as the natural address for high calibre historic jewels.
Crucially, these collaborations formalise quality control. Every highlight is accompanied by a lab report and, when relevant, a restoration log. Workshop heads appear on camera to explain why a Victorian claw was rebuilt rather than replaced, preserving microscopic tool marks that link the jewel to its original bench. Such openness feeds public confidence at a moment when fakes proliferate online. By anchoring new media content in traditional craft practice, Khan and his partners prove that digital reach and analogue integrity can not only coexist but strengthen each other.
Digital community building and consumer confidence
Instagram remains his busiest shop window, yet the platform serves a wider civic function. Swipe through his Stories on any Monday and you will find short lessons on diamond grading or the history of Asscher patents. Slides saved to Highlights form an evergreen syllabus free to anyone with Wi-Fi. The educational emphasis counters the accusation that social media glamourises luxury without context. Khan treats every post as a footnote in an ongoing textbook, complete with archival images, hallmark charts and side-by-side fluorescence tests.
TikTok brings different energy. Thirty-second clips show how to loop a 10x loupe ribbon, or why aquamarine rough is almost always heat-treated. View counts climb into six figures because the content balances novelty and practicality. Comments sections turn into impromptu classrooms where seasoned gem cutters trade insights with first-time buyers. This two-way dialogue humanises the trade, replacing old-fashioned opacity with collective inquiry. It also generates soft leads. A viewer who learns to read facet junctions today is likelier to seek professional advice tomorrow.
Behind the scenes, every sale passes through the same ethical firewall. Khan logs stone origin, previous ownership and any intervention such as repolishing or re-tipping. This approach aligns with rising interest in ethical sourcing and sustainable luxury. Clients who ask for environmental credentials receive not just marketing brochures but GIA memos and chain-of-custody records. Such diligence matters to younger collectors who value transparency as much as karat weight.
Lessons for aspiring collectors and dealers
Khan’s trajectory offers practical insights that anyone entering the field can adopt.
- Start with education, not speculation – attend auction previews, handle as many textures and cuts as possible, keep a notebook of what you learn.
- Document every alteration – a replaced gallery wire today becomes tomorrow’s question mark unless you file the invoice and photograph the work.
- Price for speed – holding costs erode margins and dull enthusiasm. A fair turnover builds trust and funds fresh inventory.
- Tell the story – provenance, social history and design context add depth that photographs alone cannot supply.
These tenets underpin both collector confidence and trade resilience. They distil decades of tradition into a playbook fit for a marketplace that never sleeps.
Why antique jewellery matters in 2025
Fast fashion cycles have pushed accessories towards disposability. By contrast, antique diamond rings and vintage engagement rings embody durability in both material and meaning. They survive trends because they predate them. Choosing history over novelty sends a cultural message: permanence still counts. Financial metrics support the sentiment. Academic studies from CASS Business School chart steady appreciation for top-tier jewels, outpacing inflation and mirroring fine art indices. No market is immune to correction, yet tangible assets with irreplaceable workmanship provide insulation against volatility. For many clients, jewellery serves as wearable hedge: use it daily, pass it on eventually.
Khan amplifies that proposition by highlighting conversion work. A gem salvaged from a broken brooch can become the centre of a contemporary ring without erasing its past. In doing so, the piece gains two stories rather than loses one. That philosophy resonates with collectors looking for jewellery investment that also meets modern styling needs. It answers the oldest question in luxury sales: can beauty be useful. With the right craftsman, yes.
Where to start buying antique jewellery
Prospective buyers often ask for a single roadmap. Khan offers three checkpoints instead. First, allocate budget for professional checks because surface sparkle can hide structural weakness. Second, consider setting upgrades that improve security without stripping character. Third, buy from platforms that publish return policies longer than statutory minimums. This guidance removes fear from buying antique jewellery and encourages participation rather than passive admiration.
Reputable routes include auction houses with specialist departments, identified dealers at major fairs and vetted online storefronts such as his own. Each channel demands different homework. Auctions reward speed and nerve, while private offices reward patience and dialogue. Hybrid models, where dealers preview lots then act as agent, combine the best of both worlds. Khan’s service menu covers all three, offering research reports, bidding representation and post-purchase servicing through trusted setters and polishers.
Hatton Garden jewellers and the future of craft
The Garden has reinvented itself many times, from Victorian workshop cluster to post-war diamond hub. Today it finds new relevance as a creative incubator where heritage artisans and content creators collaborate. Khan’s role in this ecosystem exemplifies how Hatton Garden jewellers can prosper by sharing audience attention, not competing for it. His office may lack a window display, yet his videos draw footfall to neighbouring shops. Visitors who arrive because of a viral clip often stay to explore wax-carving studios, plating basements and lapidary lofts they never knew existed. The district becomes an open-air syllabus in precious-metal culture, a living archive still writing its next chapter.
Closing thoughts
Antique jewels travel through centuries like bottled messages, each refraction carrying news of the hands that shaped them. Ishy Khan reads those messages aloud, then writes a fresh line so the conversation continues. His method proves that innovation is not the enemy of tradition, rather the oxygen that keeps it shining. In a world chasing speed, he reminds us that patience can sparkle too. The careful buyer, like the careful jeweller, knows that slow fire makes the brightest light.
