Choosing an engagement ring has always been an emotional decision. For many, it marks the beginning of a shared future. For others, it becomes the most visible emblem of their commitment. In the UK, the diamond has long been the conventional standard, its brilliance and durability serving as symbols of endurance. Yet a growing number of couples are turning away from that path. The ruby, with its deep colour and powerful associations, is stepping forward not as an alternative but as a first choice.
The appeal lies not only in aesthetics. The ruby carries with it a striking combination of history, emotion, and symbolism that sets it apart. It is not merely a beautiful stone. It is a gemstone of bold sentiment, connected to themes of love, vitality, strength, and even protection. In the current age, where meaning often matters more than tradition, ruby engagement rings offer couples a chance to express something different. They speak not only of passion but of intention.
This article provides a detailed look at the significance of ruby engagement rings, particularly for UK buyers. It unpacks the gem’s emotional weight, historical prestige, and growing popularity among those who seek something more than sparkle.
An ancient emblem of passion and protection
The colour of the ruby is more than a visual feature. It is the root of its cultural identity. The name itself comes from the Latin word ruber, meaning red. Across time, red has symbolised blood, fire, and the human heart. In ancient India, rubies were called ratnaraj, the king of precious stones, and were considered more desirable than diamonds or gold. To own a ruby was not just a matter of wealth, but of honour.
This reverence was not confined to one region. In Burma, warriors believed that inserting rubies beneath their skin would make them undefeatable in battle. In medieval Europe, rubies were thought to cure illness and ward off evil. The Chinese emperor Kublai Khan once offered an entire city for a single, flawless ruby. These stories, while dramatic, reflect the persistent belief that this stone possesses not just beauty, but a kind of elemental energy.
The ruby’s deep red has always suggested something vital. It is the colour of strong emotion. In engagement jewellery, that symbolism takes on added significance. The ruby does not merely suggest eternal love. It embodies active passion, a vivid and ongoing flame. Some believed it could encourage health and bravery. Others thought it could restore happiness. Today, the idea that the ruby holds a forceful energy is no longer viewed as mystical, but rather emotional. It is a stone for people who wish to express a relationship that is alive, intense, and sincere.
The British Crown Jewels and the story of the Black Prince’s Ruby
Few gemstones have been as closely associated with monarchy as the ruby. In the United Kingdom, its place in the Crown Jewels offers a vivid example of how beauty, narrative, and historical significance often carry more weight than mineral classification.
The Black Prince’s Ruby is one of the most striking features of the Imperial State Crown. Sitting just above the Cullinan II diamond, this uncut red stone weighs approximately 170 carats. It was given to Edward of Woodstock in the fourteenth century as a reward for military support. That moment tied the gem to a legacy of power and protection. Later, King Henry V wore it during the Battle of Agincourt, where it famously survived a direct blow to his helmet. This survival gave the stone an almost legendary status.
What makes the story more compelling is that the stone is not a ruby at all. It is a red spinel. At the time, the two stones were not chemically distinguished. Value was based on appearance, not scientific detail. Even today, the Black Prince’s Ruby remains in its position of honour, not because of what it is made of, but because of what it represents.
This distinction matters in a broader context. It reminds modern couples that the worth of a gemstone is not determined by certificates alone. It is shaped by story, sentiment, and shared meaning. The most important jewel in the British Crown is not valued for its chemical formula. It is valued for its journey.
Royal rubies and personal meaning
The ruby has continued to appear in royal jewellery throughout history. Queen Victoria’s coronation ring, created in 1838, was set with a central sapphire and a cross of five rubies. A story attached to the ring recalls how the jeweller made it for the wrong finger. The Archbishop forced it on during the ceremony, causing the young Queen significant discomfort. The anecdote is often cited to illustrate the contrast between regality and reality.
Perhaps the most celebrated ruby piece is the Oriental Circlet Tiara. Designed by Prince Albert and originally set with opals, it was later reset with Burmese rubies by Queen Alexandra. It became a favourite of Queen Elizabeth The Queen Mother and was later worn by Queen Elizabeth II. In each generation, the ruby remained constant, even as styles and wearers changed.
In 1986, Prince Andrew gave Sarah Ferguson a Burmese ruby engagement ring, chosen to match her red hair. It followed the well-known sapphire ring worn by Princess Diana and helped popularise coloured gemstones as engagement choices. Princess Anne also wears a ruby ring. These examples reflect a consistent royal preference for stones with rich colour and deep meaning.
Red on the red carpet: celebrities and rubies
Royalty is not the only sphere in which rubies have found favour. In the world of celebrity and fashion, the ruby has made a lasting impression. Elizabeth Taylor, known for her extraordinary jewellery collection, owned an 8.24-carat ruby ring from Van Cleef & Arpels. A gift from Richard Burton, the piece later sold for over £3 million at auction. It was not her only ruby. In 1957, Mike Todd gave her a Cartier ruby and diamond necklace, further cementing the gem’s association with luxury and love.
More recently, Victoria Beckham received a floral ruby ring from David Beckham, adding it to her growing collection of engagement rings. Katy Perry’s ring from Orlando Bloom featured a central ruby surrounded by eight white diamonds, arranged in a vintage-style flower design. The ring became instantly recognisable. Jessica and Ashlee Simpson both chose ruby rings designed by Neil Lane. Mila Kunis and Eva Longoria have also worn rubies as symbols of affection and individuality.
These choices show a trend. The ruby has become a preferred option for those who want to express style, strength, and sentiment. Each of these celebrities chose a ruby not for trend alone, but to represent something personal. The styles vary, but the message is consistent. A ruby is not just a jewel. It is a statement.
A gemstone of individuality and intent
The decision to select a ruby engagement ring reflects more than an aesthetic preference. It represents a shift in priorities. While diamonds are often evaluated by standard metrics, rubies invite a different approach. They ask the buyer to consider emotion, meaning, and story. This suits modern couples who value connection over conformity.
A ruby is also a deeply individual choice. Its colour, origin, and history create a unique profile for each stone. No two rubies are the same. This makes the ring not only a representation of love, but also a reflection of the wearer’s personality.
In the UK, where heritage and symbolism often carry significant weight, this makes the ruby especially appealing. Whether paired with traditional yellow gold or a modern platinum setting, the ruby has the versatility to reflect both classic taste and contemporary values.
Fun Fact: The famous Black Prince’s Ruby in the Imperial State Crown is actually a red spinel. It has held pride of place for over six centuries, despite not being a ruby at all.
What makes a ruby so rare and valuable
To understand the value of a ruby engagement ring, it is necessary to examine the gem beneath its symbolism. While its emotional impact is strong, its physical properties are equally compelling. The ruby is not just rare. It is geologically difficult to create, making it one of the most sought-after gemstones on the market.
Rubies are a red variety of corundum, a crystalline form of aluminium oxide. What turns ordinary corundum into a ruby is the presence of chromium. This trace element replaces some of the aluminium atoms during the crystal’s formation. The result is the intense red that defines the ruby’s appeal.
The deeper the concentration of chromium, the more saturated the red. In the best stones, the effect is so strong that the ruby appears to glow. This glow is not an illusion. Rubies can emit visible red light, a phenomenon called fluorescence. It gives top-quality rubies an internal fire, visible even in dim lighting.
But there is a paradox. The same chromium that gives a ruby its brilliance also disrupts its structure. This disruption can cause inclusions and fractures. As a result, finding large, clear rubies is extremely difficult. This explains why the ruby is rarer than the diamond in high-quality sizes, and why its price per carat can often exceed it.
Ruby versus diamond versus garnet
Comparing rubies with other popular stones helps buyers make informed choices. While the diamond remains the standard, and garnet is sometimes seen as a lower-cost alternative, each stone carries different implications for appearance, durability, and symbolism.
Diamonds are valued for brilliance and hardness. They score a perfect 10 on the Mohs scale, making them the hardest natural substance. Rubies score a 9, placing them just behind but still suitable for daily wear. What the ruby lacks in sparkle, it makes up for in colour depth and fire.
In terms of symbolism, the diamond represents eternity and purity. The ruby stands for love, courage, and vitality. One is cool and classic. The other is warm and emotional.
Garnets, while red, come from a different mineral group. They are softer, ranging from 6.5 to 7.5 on the Mohs scale, and are more prone to scratches. Garnets also display different undertones, often leaning towards brown or orange. They are more affordable, but lack the saturation and glow that make rubies exceptional.
For buyers, the decision is not purely technical. It is about resonance. Diamonds appeal to those who value structure and tradition. Rubies speak to those who feel deeply and prefer symbolism to conformity.
The practical side of ruby grading
Buying a ruby requires knowledge of how the stone is assessed. While the diamond market is highly standardised through the 4Cs, the ruby requires a slightly different lens. Of the 4Cs — colour, clarity, cut and carat — it is colour that matters most.
Colour is judged by hue, tone, and saturation. The most desirable rubies are pure red, not leaning too far towards orange or purple. The tone should not be too dark, which can make the gem look lifeless, nor too light, which makes it resemble a pink sapphire. The best saturation creates a rich, vivid red often described as “pigeon’s blood.” This term refers to a pure red with a slight blue undertone and strong fluorescence. It is not a marketing gimmick, but a recognised colour standard among high-end jewellers.
Clarity in rubies is approached differently than in diamonds. Perfectly clean rubies are nearly impossible to find. Small inclusions are normal and even desirable if they show the stone is natural. Inclusions known as “silk”, which are tiny needle-like formations, can scatter light and give the gem a soft, velvety glow. What matters is that the stone is eye-clean, meaning no flaws are obvious without magnification.
Cut in rubies aims to enhance colour, not brilliance. Oval and cushion cuts are popular because they retain weight while maximising colour. Poorly cut stones can show pale centres or dark patches. A good cut balances shape, depth, and orientation of colour.
Carat weight affects price exponentially. Because large rubies are so rare, their value rises sharply with size. A two-carat ruby of top quality may cost significantly more than a one-carat stone, even if all other factors are equal.
Country of origin and why it matters
Where a ruby comes from has a direct impact on its quality, market value, and ethical standing. Not all origins are equal, and for UK buyers who value transparency, this information is crucial.
Burma (Myanmar) is historically the most prestigious source. Rubies from the Mogok Valley are prized for their intense red, glowing fluorescence, and fine clarity. However, political concerns over military funding have made Burmese rubies controversial. Many UK jewellers now refuse to stock them, aligning with ethical trade policies.
Mozambique is now the world’s leading source of high-quality rubies. Stones from this region are known for their colour purity and larger sizes. They offer strong fluorescence and high clarity and are generally free from the ethical concerns associated with Burma. The record-setting sale of a 55.22-carat Mozambique ruby in 2023 placed these African gems firmly at the top of the global market.
Thailand has been a historic supplier, but rubies from here often have darker tones due to high iron content. They are usually heat-treated and are more abundant in the market.
Other African sources, such as Tanzania, are emerging with high-potential deposits. These stones vary in quality but may provide good value with proper certification.
Fun Fact: The highest price ever paid for a ruby was £28 million for a 55.22-carat Mozambique stone, sold at auction in 2023.
Natural, lab-grown and treated rubies: what buyers must know
Not all rubies are equal in origin or treatment. The market includes a range of options, and understanding them is essential.
Natural rubies are mined from the earth and contain inclusions. They are the most valuable and sought after. No two are the same.
Lab-grown rubies are real rubies, identical in structure and composition. They are grown under controlled conditions and usually contain fewer inclusions. While more affordable and ethical, they lack rarity and do not hold the same resale or heirloom value.
Treated rubies are natural stones that have been enhanced. Heat treatment is the most common and accepted. It improves colour and clarity without compromising structure.
A less desirable treatment is glass-filling, where fractures are filled with a lead-based glass to improve appearance. These stones are more fragile, cheaper, and must be disclosed clearly. They are not suitable for long-term wear, especially in engagement rings.
Buyers should always ask for certification. A reliable certificate from a trusted gem lab will confirm the ruby’s authenticity, whether it has been treated, and if it is natural or lab-grown. This is not a luxury, but a necessity when making a significant investment.
Ethical buying and the UK jewellery market
For UK couples, choosing a jeweller with a transparent sourcing policy is key. London’s Hatton Garden remains the epicentre of custom-made ruby rings. Jewellers like Queensmith openly declare their ethical stance, refusing to trade in rubies linked to conflict zones and prioritising stones from trusted suppliers.
Online platforms such as Austen & Blake and high-street names like Holts Gems and Engagement Rings Boutique offer ruby rings in a wide range of prices. The best retailers will clearly label origin, treatment, and certification details. Buyers should seek those who offer personal consultations and detailed product disclosures.
Final thoughts: a choice of substance and sentiment
A ruby engagement ring is more than a visual statement. It is a decision to honour meaning over habit. From its powerful colour to its deep-rooted cultural identity, the ruby provides a profound expression of connection. It is rare, valuable, and often more personal than its diamond counterpart.
For UK couples seeking a lasting symbol, the ruby offers a compelling narrative. It is a stone with personality, history, and heart. Whether worn in a vintage setting or a modern design, it captures not only the past, but the hopes and emotions of the present.
