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The original Hatton Garden directory, est. 2003

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The Craft of Handcrafted Signet Rings Explained

5 August 2016|By Hatton Garden Jewellers|8 min read
8 min read

The signet ring is one of the oldest pieces of personal jewellery, and in Hatton Garden, EC1N, London's historic diamond quarter, hand-engraved signet rings remain a living craft. A handcrafted signet ring carries a family crest, a monogram or a wholly original design, cut by hand into precious metal. Worn for centuries as a mark of identity, the signet has found new life as a modern keepsake, an engagement ring and even a wedding band. For anyone drawn to this tradition, the workshops around Greville Street and Leather Lane that produce bespoke signet rings show just how personal the craft can be.

The art of hand engraving

Hand engraving is slow, skilled work. A goldsmith cuts the design directly into the metal using fine tools, reversing crests and lettering so they print correctly in wax.

No two hand-cut signets are identical, even from the same drawing. That individuality is the point, and it is why a hand-engraved ring feels different from a machine-stamped one.

Metals, stones and pairings

Signet rings are crafted in platinum and in 9, 14 and 18 carat gold, in yellow, white and rose tones. The choice of metal sets the character of the piece and how it will wear over the years.

A medium band can be worn above a signet to add colour, sometimes set with white or black diamonds, rubies or sapphires. Such pairings let the wearer change a look without changing the ring beneath. The London Assay Office hallmarks every piece, and certified stones come with GIA or IGI reports.

A modern keepsake

Traditional family crests remain popular, but more people now design their own meaningful motifs. A signet can mark a marriage, a milestone or simply a personal symbol.

The makers near Chancery Lane and Farringdon stations, across Camden and Holborn, will take a design from sketch to finished ring. Pairing a signet with a matching bespoke jewellery design turns a single ring into a lasting heirloom.

Fun fact: Signet rings were once pressed into hot wax to seal letters, making the wearer's ring a personal signature long before pens were common.

For our most complete and up-to-date advice on this topic, read the signet ring: heritage, meaning and modern style.

Tags
Hatton Gardenbespoke jewelleryprecious metalsgoldsmithmonogram ringssignet ringshand engravingfamily crest
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